Assembeling your Figures and Models

.Assembling your Models. Here we Include some helpful Guidance on how to get the best from your Metal Model Figures.

How To Assemble your metal Models.

SAFETY WARNING

OUR PRODUCTS ARE NOT RECOMMENDED FOR

CHILDREN UNDER TH AGE OF 14. NOT SUITABLE

FOR YOUNG CHILDREN CONTAINS SMALL OR

SHARP PARTS CHOCKING HAZARD !!!

KEEP AWAY FROM SMALL CHILDREN AND PETS.

Studio Paris Art VEB and its Staff or management CANNOT BE HELD LEGALY LIABLE OR RESPONSABLE FOR EVENTS OR DAMAGE OR ACCIDDENS OR ANY OTHER EVENTS ARISING FROM FAILING TO FOLLOW OUR SAFETY WARNING.

To begin you will need some basic Hobby Modellers Tools.

Always work in a well Light and well Ventilated area.

Do not work if you are tired or unwell.

A Good Quality Metal "Trimmer" to Trim or De Burr parts.
A hand "Pin Vice" or Hand Held "Chuck that can hold several sizes of Metal Drilling Bits.
A selection of Differrent Modellers Tweezers, Pointed
Fine, Bent Forked, Flat Edged, Adjustable, Straight.

A pair of Compass Proportional Divider Points, or a Calibrated Proportional Divider Gauge.

If you are not an older, ADULT experienced Modeller, you MUST not use Hot Sodering Irons, but MUST use the EPOXY GLue or Cement Assembly Method.
Choose a suitable brand of EPOXY you are comfortable working with, as the drying or "workable" or setting hardening time of the Epoxy glue varies from brand to brand.
ONLY FOR OLDER ADULT EXPERIENCED MODELLERS
A Sodering Iron with Variable Temperature inbuilt "Control". Regulation and therefore handling and manipulation of the metal materials and Silver Soder is important to be able to control,in order to enable you to arrive at best working Practice.
Choose a brand of Pure Soder you are happy with, but always TEST the quality on some old discarded Model Parts or materials first.
Eye Protection Must be worn when working with Soder or Hot Sodering Irons. Choose a reputable brand of "Safety workshop Glasses or "Goggles" (avoid cheaper brands which steam and Mist up during use !).
A Selection of Hobby work "Clamps" or holders is useful. Choose a set of differrent sizes, both in Hard Plastic and Metal, to use accorrdding to the weight and temepratu
re required for the pieces of Metal being work'd.
A Selection of Hobby and "Rat Tail" type files, Flat Files and Semi Rounded for fileing edges and any flash or joints into shape.
Some Filling of the Joints may be necessary, especially on the bigger Models such as Horses and Elephants. We recommend personaly EPOXY MILLIPUT, a two Part Epoxy Filler which comes supplied in two Tubes. When equaly Mixed homogenously, this material can be smoothly workd, and smoothd additionaly with Water. MILLIPUT is available in THREE separate differrent colours and Grades, please discern the required grade for your work.
Some Auto Workshop or "Yellow colour Masking tape" (it has a low Sticky point and is useful both for Holding parts in place while drying, or for Painting straight lines etc.
A Desk or hand Held magnifier Glass is highly recommended, esecially if you are an older person who releis upon wearing Prescription eye Reading Glasses, to enable you to clearly see and fit the parts safely. (If this is "you" consider buying a Professional back lighted Desk Fitted and adjustable Magnifier from a Hobby or Medical Supplier. They can be "swung" away from your work area when not required.

A USB Rechargeable or batterrie powered Hobby Lamp which can be worn around your head on a elastic securing strap, can also be a useful practical idea for additional lighting.

LIGHTING AND SAFETY IS VERY IMPORTANT PLEASE ENSURE YOUR WORK AREA OR DESK IS AWAY FROM SMALL CHILDREN ANIMALS AND AQURIUMS AND FROM PLACES WHERE FOODSTUFFS MAY BE PREPARED
DO NOT EAT OR DRINK OR HAVE FOODS IN YOUR WORK AREA
YOU MUST NOT SMOKE IN YOUR WORK AREA
(Hobby Enamel Paints and Brush Thinners Cleaners can give off explosive and flamamble fumes or vapours. !!!!!!

Test the Fit of each part or sub assemblies of Multiple Parts carefully BEFORE using the EPOXY Cement or Glue. Carry out a "Dry (No Glue!) Run of assembly, to satisfy yourself to the correct fit of the parts before using the Glue or Soder.

Trim any Burrs or Joint Lines or any "Flash" away from the parts.

NOTE

Some parts or castings can be very weighty, and have only smooth joining surfaces and do not always have "fastening pins". Where this is the case, we strongly recommend that you consider temporarily fastening the heavy pieces or work into some "Plasticine" or similar Hobby recommended material on your desk or work holder surface.

This will help prevent the "work" Metal parts, from accidentaly gliding or slipping as the EPOXY dries (or as you are trying to join them together with a sodering iron !!!).This should keep the castings lined up properly in a good fit until the epoxy or glue has dried.

Sometimes, if parts are large, consider using the Yellow Low Stick Masking Tape, to wrap around or stick onto the work, to help keep the ehavy parts lined up properly, this can easily be removed afterwards when the Bond strngth of the surfaces has fully been reached NB Some brands of EPOXY only reach MAXIMUM Bond strength after 24 or 48 hours. Please be careful.

Some Kits or figures require a small "Pin" hole or fastening hole to be drilled, (such as Hands of Medival Archers to take the Bows or Wheels of Artillery Guns Hand Carts, Spears Bows Swords etc).

Please refer to the Instruction papers and Diagrams where furnished, and use the "Pin Vice" hand held (NON MOTORIZED) Drill to carefully drill the hole. Carefully check fit of parts, and use if necessary a fine thin "RAT TAIL" Hobby File to carefully enlarge the drilled hole until correct fit of parts is acheived. DO NOT RUSH THIS!

Older experienced Modellers may wish to use a Motorized Tool Drill or Flexible Shaft hobby tool version to Drill the Fixing Pin Holes. If using Motor tools to Drill (or trim or clean) metal please remember metal or Resin Dust is Poisonous. Wear a Face Mask and eye protection.

We strongly recommend a Desk or Hobby Bench "Vice" to hold your work safely and securely while you drill or trim any parts.

For Painting your Models we recommend HUMBROL or Similar brand Enamel Paints. But please refer to your local Hobby Supplier or Paint brand manufacturer site on the Internet for more detailed information. In our experience, "SOME3 Water based colours might "hold" or work, but equally, others do NOT and they can "cake" and slide and mass up on the surfaces of your metal Model. IF IN DOUBT WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND YOU TEST YOUR PAINTS ON OLD DISCARDED METAL PARTS OR OTHER OLD MODELS YOU HAVE DICARDED FIRST to ensure a correct adhesion of the paint products.

WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT BEFORE YOU PAINT THE FINISHING COLOURS YOU SPRAY OR BRUSH YOUR FIGURES OR MODELS WITH WHITE PRIMER FIRST.

This encourages good adhesion of the properties of the paints you will use to finish your work. WARNING Cutting corners at this stage will risk spoiling all your hard work done on the Models. Please take your time and check first !

Always Spray Paint in a well ventilated area away from Children and Pets or Aquariums ! Wear asafety Face mask Avoid breathing paint vapour from Paints or Thinner (Diluant) Products

WOODEN DISPLAY ROUND OR SQUARE BASES

We supply many of our Models with Wooden bases. You are required to Mount your figures or Models onto them for Display. Please carefully measure the Distances of the Fixing Pins (Horses Hooves Pins, Soldiers Boots, etc) and mark the points for the fixing holes onto the wooden base in PENCIL . Use a set of Compass Dividers or Proportional Dividers for this. Then Carefully slowly drill the necessary fixing holes into the wooden base and fasten using EPOXY

Some Models have very heavy parts and are only fixed to the base using ONE Foot or Leg etc. IN THIS CASE WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND that you Also drill out the "Foot" or leg , boot etc, of the metal Model, and take a piece of Suitable 3GAUGE3 Copper Wire, cut the wire to size, and insert into the Drilled hole (use epoxy if necessary to reinforce the joint of the wire intot he Modl) Then, late, once dried, secure the Copper Gauge wire into the Wooden abse and again if necessary use some EPOXy or even MILLIPUT to re inforce the joint.

PLEASE SUPPORT AND SECURELY PROP UP THE MODEL WORK UNTIL THE COPPER WIRE JOIN HAS FULLY HARDENED.